The Luxury of Survival: Engineered for the Post-Human
Utility and functionality have always shaped my style ethos, and sit at the core of my value system, so it is with a heavy yet resolute heart that I highlight the growing discrepancies I have found within functional clothing embracing luxury ideals. A luxury of survival. When a base need, safety and survival are met…
Timisola Shasanya’s CSM Graduate Collection: “Runners”
Photographer: rebeccamaynesphoto Models (in order): jumamachar , tass_sarr , _liamgunn , akhigbe_e , cholmabiorr , zavieranwaar Migrant bodies, a tale of wear and tear, resilience and the indomitable human spirit. Who are you? What defines you? Where do you call home? What happens when that home is home no more? The framework of an identity…
Anti-Fashion: A Protest Of Fashion
Anti-fashion is a term that has become more prominent these days with the sudden collective disdain of society for current fashion norms and meaning. There are two terms which I believe accurately describe the two sides of Anti-fashion amalgamating it into one definition. Firstly, anti-fashion is any fashion that is intentionally contrary to the mainstream.…
Goth and the Paradox of Anti-Fashion: Subversion in a Commodified World
“Goth” is a subculture and movement that has existed for over 40 years. It is a way of life that has come under heavy scrutiny since its inception, being unequally ridiculed and appreciated. The dark child of post-punk and glam rock. Its formative years were as a movement that possessed moody, dramatic and dark tones.…
Deconstructivism, Punk, Undercover Scab SS03
Deconstructivism Deconstructivism in architecture can be explained simply as the process of dismantling an existing building and rebuilding it differently to convey new meaning through this reconstruction. Deconstructivist architects perceive it as the process of breaking down the modern conservative foundation of architecture to birth a new footing for design and creation. This concept spurred…
A-COLD-WALL*: Social Architecture
“A-COLD-WALL*”, founded in 2015 by Samuel Ross is a UK menswear brand nearing its maturity having existed for almost 10 years. “A sartorial response to London street culture and the zeitgeist of Britain’s working class” in the brand’s own words, reflects the architectural reality of Britain’s working class and streetwear divisions. I first discovered A-COLD-WALL…
Alexander McQueen “No.13” S/S 1999
“No.13”, titled as such being Lee McQueen’s 13th show is described as his ode to the Arts and Crafts Movement. Set as his Spring/Summer collection of 1999 comprising 75 looks and located at Gatliff Warehouse. Designs consisting of largely natural tones such as beige, tan, brown etc. Pieces hand-crafted from wood emphasizing the arts and…
Givenchy Fall 2000s Ready-To-Wear Collection: McQueen’s Stylistic Rebellion
“I’m a cliché”, a punk ballad plays in the background as models strut the runway. Military colours of army green and purple dominate the runway. It’s almost as if the models are soldiers marching from the form they walk in. While the outfits act as uniforms for these soldiers. These are some of the personal…
Genève Florance: Fashion’s Problem Solver
Genève Florance is a designer that has recently risen above the surface with the release of their first collection “Comment puis-je perdre en suivant Dieu” which translates to “How could I lose while following God”, a song that inspired the direction and naming of their collection. Florance’s debut collection is a story of grief, rebellion,…
Alexander McQueen “Golden Shower” SS 1998 R-T-W
“Golden Shower”, is a vile and erotic phrase aptly used for Alexander McQueen’s 1998 Spring/Summer collection. The title was conjured by Lee in direct response to the sponsors of the show American Express and the upcoming launch of their new Gold Card in the UK. However, it was later replaced by the title, “Untitled”, due…
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