A dreamer’s guide to a celebration of life

A dream for tomorrow, architecture constructed for the growth and success of those to come. Coach grasped the fundamentals of this idea and harnessed them into the core of this collection. A celebration of hope, memory and truth. Hope in the future, Memories of the past. Truth of the present. Clothing reworked, upcycled and reinterpreted into something new, hope in the future. Signature design elements, brand aesthetics and visual identity integrated into this collection, memories of the past. A runway collection presented now, founded on brand values of boldness, authenticity and belief in self, truth of the present.

Coach came in locked and loaded for this 53 look parade through time. Stuart Vevers, the captain-in-charge of this ship at Pier 36, on Manhattan’s East River waterfront. Pier 36 being the location the runway was presented at. In Vevers show notes it was clear this collection was anything but a nostalgia cash cow. Unlike typical brands who revel in their past without an outlook on their future direction. This show was a study of the future with revision notes of the past, being written in present day. According to Vevers, he was honoring the hands that built the brand, be it craftspeople, buyers and the like, while inviting a new crowd aboard. Every aspect of the show seemed to embody Coach’s brand ethos and the show’s themes in one way or the other.

Pier 36

Piers represent a plethora of things as spaces that have undergone multiple transformations. Initially colonial trading posts, then shipping ports and currently public parks and cultural spaces. The use of the pier by Vevers, in my view, was a symbol of the time and transformation within the memory aspects of the show. The past informs the future and as change is constant so is Coach. The layout of the runway show appearing to be a gathering space for loved ones. Filled with neutral-toned sofas, wine and low tables. It was a perfect pairing with the pier as a landmark of queer sanctuary, birthing a safe space for intimacy and liberation, ideals that I believe relate both to the brand and Vevers personally. The pier set the perfect stage for Coach’s dream of tomorrow.

“Marz” & “Love Is The Message“

The music being played from the start of the show gave the feeling of one lost in the embrace of memory. An image of frolicking through a field of daisies as a child came to mind. “Marz” by John Grant plays for a good chunk of the show. A melancholic and nostalgic song about childhood innocence. It is a song steeped in memory and sweetened by time, the primary themes of the show. The name “Marz” serving as a gateway back to the comfort of childhood and the protection of innocence. A lot of inferences can be made from that, as Vevers seems to tackle youth prominently in this show. It could be seen as a nod to the youth of the past, being the infancy of the Coach brand, the youth of now being the disposable income of tomorrow or the youth of the future, as Coach intends to flourish through time.

After which, the second half of the show consisted of a group of string musicians from UpBeat NYC performing “Love is the Message” by MFSB with saxophonists over a backing track. In line with the central message of the show, it speaks to the ability of love to overcome all. In the context of New York, its history and the orchestra itself I understood this as love breaking through social division, racial tension, and hardship. As the clothing Coach produces weathers the ravages of time through love, so can we all. Love is life, and life is love. An anniversary celebrated of a loved life.

Utility, Memory & Reinvention

The concept of utility was one I found prominently throughout the show. In fact, it was arguably my reason for covering it. Clothing designed with a primary focus on practicality, function and everyday usability. The clothes that walked down the runway were precisely that. Clothes for everyday wear. Utility emerges here in performance first rather than traditional appearance. Relaxed tailoring across the collection allowed for comfortability and fluid motion. Durable fabrics, primarily leather appeared on both accessories and garments, designed to resist wear and tear. Nevertheless, utility could be seen in its traditional appearance from the use of neutral palettes of earth tones found throughout the collection.

I loved the collection because the clothes embodied those values and fit my personal style to near perfection.

The show began with a more restrained look and a darker palette. It was not following a strict code, as the style was more street-born yet possessed exact tailoring. A contradiction. Yet an authentic representation of the brand. There was almost a disregard to the formality as the looks properly depicted everyday life, the tuxedos holding age within them and as such possessing wisdom. The looks were of a carefree nature while retaining an air of seriousness.

As the show went on the palette lightened, introducing a freedom previously undiscovered. It was as though the latter half of the show beckoned to the younger generations. It was a call to arms. A bid by Coach inviting the future to join them. Yes, it was a celebration of the brand, but it was also a reinvention.

Accessories across the show all seemed to carry a weight, unlike the average show, no accessory was wasted or void of meaning. The crown appeared to be a symbol of Coach’s dominance through time and a foreshadowing of a continued dominance. The time-piece pendants hung across models necks, taking stock of the moment, each look almost a piece of time itself. And the crystal tear drop necklace, a reference to Vevers show notes, specifically the passage of life in memory being crystalized, and thus made physical. The bows were a treat as they were plastered all across models looks, hinting at the collection itself being the big present Vevers aimed to share with everyone in celebration of the brands 85th birthday.

Amongst the accessories, the crystal tear drop necklaces, the turnlock tote bag 22 in yellow, and the crown were my favourites.

Across the show there were multiple complete looks I could envision myself donning in my daily life. Look 8, Look 15, Look 31 and Look 34. Look 8 is a look I’d wear to the club, the vest providing breathability and fluid movement, while the leather screams boldness and intimacy. The jacket would be a perfect way to avoid getting grime on the rest of the outfit, or protection from the elements depending on what the weather is like. Look 15, a perfect tea look, its oversized design providing just enough freedom to pull it off in a cafe or a trip to the grocery store. Look 31 and 34 are both perfect for travel, dinners, and sightseeing. The way the trench coat flows in the wind, the loose fitted tailored pants and jacket moving with the body promising both comfort and ease of motion. Both looks scream business, the business being fashion.

Now, Look 14, Look 43, Look 44 and Look 49 were the most stand-out looks to me despite some of them deviating from my personal styling tastes. Look 14 is quite romantic, the floral imaging portraying emotion and vulnerability, a defiance of social norms especially as it is a menswear piece. Meanwhile, Look 43 reminds me of a child owning their own future, the party hat is a celebration but also a symbol of choice. The metallic silver top and skirt representing a whimsy strong and determined to fight against the gloom of the world. The playfulness in these looks is a tenet I value.

Look 44, a black satin dress that seems to subtly dominate, a reference to Coach’s positioning as one of the more expressive luxury brands out there, both in the intangible, culture, and the tangible, sales. Look 49, sequin galore, as the pink sequin dress seems to scream “I am the moment” and unapologetically takes center stage. The red bow being the cherry on top. While the cowboy boots referencing Coach’s American heritage, it also gives the look a stronger edge.

Across the show, I found myself imagining where each look could exist in my own wardrobe and daily life. I asked myself what memory meant to me and what my interpretation of love looked like to myself and others. That is perhaps what made the collection resonate with me so much. In this show I found myself hopeful for tomorrow, recognizing memory’s place in creating that tomorrow and the truth of my being reflected in these garments.

Coach managed to celebrate its history without allowing the past to become a shackle, instead using it as a foundation for something new. It is a balance of utility, playfulness, memory and reinvention that I found difficult to look away from. A dream for tomorrow is what I believe Coach has achieved today. Clothing that carries hope for a better future, cut and sewn by the fabric of people’s love.