Timisola Shasanya’s CSM Graduate Collection: “Runners”

Photographer: rebeccamaynesphoto

Models (in order): jumamachar , tass_sarr , _liamgunn , akhigbe_e , cholmabiorr ,
zavieranwaar

Migrant bodies, a tale of wear and tear, resilience and the indomitable human spirit. Who are you? What defines you? Where do you call home? What happens when that home is home no more? The framework of an identity that lies outside of border lines. As a migrant myself these are questions I’ve often pondered from a young age. These questions are the same that arose as I watched Timisola Shasanya’s collection go down the runway. Questions formed and answered with each look. The answer you may ask? Put simply is, I am a bit of everything. Every country that sculpted my formative years , every piece of clothing I wore, Every stamp my passport saw, Every individual that slightly turned their head at the pronunciation of my name and the accompanied question of its spelling. This answer may lack nuance at face value, but you would be mistaken to solely observe the surface of it.

“Runners”, the graduate collection of Central Saint Martins (CSM) student, Sarabande Foundation scholar and BFC scholarship holder Timisola Shasanya is a history of experiences. A narrative of borders, lines crossed, lines maintained, migrations as it parallels slavery and an identity formed in its midst. Timisola artistically depicts the pain and beauty of migration, weaving it into each and every look. We see her journey born in Ireland, raised between England and Nigeria all coming to head at her present CSM journey in London. An identity rooted in multiple locations and the convergence of it.

According to the press release, A collection born from a life of migration, her starting point was formed through those experiences, the feelings that accompanied them and how they made her the designer she is today. A depiction of the delicate balance of creating these looks that speak to her life in these different countries, and the application of unconventional techniques & material manipulation.

Shasanya’s choice of materials is deeply intentional, each fabric and texture speaks to themes of displacement, memory, and inheritance. Techniques shaped by her time at Central Saint Martins meet elements from her Nigerian upbringing, resulting in garments that carry both personal and cultural weight. By working with found objects, surplus textiles, and structured detailing, she transforms clothing into vessels for stories of migration and belonging.

As I watched the collection, it felt bold and unrestrained, yet fragile and soft. Visually, it was as though I were walking through a rotating three-dimensional art gallery, with every look revealing a new perspective. The sculptural nature of the collection conveyed more depth to me, sharp forms and exaggerated shapes visually representing the disruption of leaving home and forming a new identity elsewhere. While the shaping of fabric into form to me was an attempt to preserve or reshape memory. My favourite look was the first look, it seemed imposing, yet freeing, loose flaps drifting, with a steel frame as its foundation, moving with purpose and a subtle sadness. The jewellery produced reminded me of the shackles slaves had to carry, typically while they were transported being transported for sale.

The collection was cohesive, each look masterfully moulded to the theme of collection. The use of African brooms in look 3 caught my eye, it was reminiscent of her CSM white show collection, yet different, a sculptural piece initially implemented to tell a story of the trauma we carry with as from her previous collection appears to tell a slightly different story now. The striking indigo blue, a colour known to convey introspection, perhaps the brooms now portrayed a reflection of self, history, that was my interpretation of said look. One of the marks of a truly great designer is their ability to recontextualize items, mundane or otherwise into something truly meaningful and we see this in the application of the broom in this look.

I had the pleasure of sitting down with Shasanya after her show to discuss the masterful work that is “Runners”.

Interview

⦁ What was the core concept behind your collection, and how did it evolve throughout the design process?

“The core concept behind my collection is an exploration of migration as a personal and emotional journey and how movement reshapes identity, memory, and the body. Craftsmanship and heritage sit at the heart of my process. Drawing on my Nigerian roots, I weave my past into every stitch, using materials and techniques that feel charged with history: wax, brooms, dyes, and unconventional textures.
Throughout my research, I was inspired by Heidi Bucher’s practice of “skinning” architecture to reveal its emotional imprints. In a similar way, I returned to Lagos and Kano to collect tactile fragments of my childhood environment. These objects imbued with their own stories became the starting point for my fabric manipulations, weaving, and hand-dyeing processes. The result is a menswear collection that feels dark yet quiet, loaded with tension and intimacy, a fusion of global fragments distilled into something personal.
As the design process evolved, so too did my understanding of displacement. What began as an exploration of migration gradually became an act of preservation translating the weight of one place into another, carrying memory and identity on the body.”

⦁ Were there any personal, cultural, or political influences that shaped your work?

“I draw heavily from my heritage, embedding echoes of memory, spirituality, and craft into every stitch. Unorthodox materials like brooms from my childhood home or industrial wax become tactile poems. Migration was a topic of a discussion for this collection stemming from my own migratory experiences overseas.”

⦁ Can you describe the materials and techniques you used, and why they were important to your narrative?

“The materials and techniques I used are deeply tied to my personal narrative. I sourced indigo-dyed textiles and leather from Kano, Nigeria, and incorporated waxed cotton sponsored by Barbour, a deliberate reference to the jackets I wore during my boarding school years. Alongside these, I worked with raw cottons, linen, and more unexpected materials like brooms and metal, all drawn from my surroundings. Every choice carries a sense of place and memory, grounding the collection in my lived experience.
Technically, I employed hand-dyeing, fabric treatments, weaving, and layering to evoke both resilience and vulnerability. The pieces have a weatherproof sensibility, culminating in a final sail-inspired look that embodies endurance, movement, and the strength of the migrating body. Together, these materials and processes create garments that feel like a tactile archive of my journey.”

⦁ What challenges did you face while developing the collection, and how did you overcome them?

“That working with certain materials, especially non-traditional ones pose a much bigger challenge than usual. It takes great patience and an understanding of craft in order to manipulate materials into what you want that fits the narrative of the story.”

⦁ How do you want people to feel or respond when engaging with your collection?

“To be intimidated yet intrigued, and to question what they’re looking at and feel a heavy understanding of cultural significance and excellence.”

⦁ Where do you see your work sitting within today’s fashion landscape, and what are you hoping to explore next?

“I see my work sitting at the intersection of art, fashion, and culture where garments become both wearable and conceptual pieces. My practice is about creating spaces for dialogue and emotional resonance, i want to treat the runway as an evolving gallery where craft and narrative take center stage. Going forward, I want to explore this presentation format further by holding exhibitions and curating immersive environments that allow my pieces to breathe and be experienced up close. It’s less about the traditional catwalk and more about crafting a world around the work, one that honors craftsmanship, history, and the ongoing conversation between identity and design.”

⦁ “Runners”, tell me what does that mean to you?

“The name reflects both the literal construction of the fabric and the deeper
themes of migration and memory. It’s about how material can carry pain and beauty simultaneously and how something as humble as a broom can hold a world of meaning when you look closely enough.”

⦁ How would you say you’ve evolved between your white show and ba collection?

“Time and patience. I’ve had many years to reflect back on things that don’t work and used my placement year experience to understand that through mistakes you can create your most powerful work.”

⦁ How does this show reflect your lived experience?

“It doesn’t fully. It shows a fraction of my experience. It’s beautiful being able to share the space with my classmates something I’m eternally grateful for. But seeing my garments alone go down the runway proves to me that my work holds more weight when it’s more than the garments itself. It’s also about the process, the research, the mistakes, the subtle intentions. I’m excited for a future where I am able to stage my own presentations and show my full narrative and direction.”

⦁ Where did the thought to collaborate with those specific designers come from? Both Vanya, the jewellery designer and the Nigerian Shoemakers/Artisans

“Collaboration is important, without it more than half the work doesn’t exist. Being able to work with people that share a similar vision to me was pivotal and humbling as through that it allows you to grow as an individual and designer too.”

As the press release eloquently states, Timisola Shasanya’s collection is indeed ‘a bit of everything,’ a rich tapestry woven from diverse experiences and a profound understanding of how identity is forged through movement. Her ability to translate personal history and cultural nuances into such compelling and intricate designs marks her as a truly visionary talent. Based on the depth of her conceptual work and the remarkable craftsmanship evident in ‘Runners,’ it’s clear that Timisola Shasanya is a designer to watch closely in the evolving landscape of fashion and art. Her future presentations, which she envisions as immersive experiences, promise to offer even deeper insights into her powerful narrative. A future in which I am excited to witness.

Fashion Designer: Timisola Shasanya

Jewellery Designer/Collaborator: Vanya Sundari